SESH · ADVANCED FRAGRANCE ACADEMY
Distinguish individual chemicals, extracts, fragrance bases and sensory notes using a traceable material record.
Linalool contains an OH alcohol group. One functional group is insufficient to predict every molecule’s odour or the performance of a mixture.
Open full-size image ↗Four terms that must not be confused
An aroma material is a specified substance or mixture supplied for formulation. A note is an odor impression, such as green apple or rose. An accord combines materials to create a coherent scent character. A fragrance base is a prepared mixture supplied to serve a formulation role. A 'jasmine note' is not proof that jasmine absolute is present.
Single molecules and botanical extracts
Linalool is a defined chemical substance that may originate from extraction or synthesis. Bergamot essential oil is a mixture of many constituents whose proportions depend on botanical and processing factors. A pure molecule and a complex extract cannot be compared by counting detected notes. Both require verified supplier specifications, batch identity and safety evaluation.
Build a material passport
Record the verified name, supplier, applicable CAS identifier for a defined compound, material type, sample dilution and solvent, sourced odor descriptors, lot number, receipt date, storage conditions and relevant SDS/IFRA documentation. Mark unavailable data honestly. Sensory similarity cannot establish a material's identity, geographic origin or supplier grade.
Vanilla pods are a real botanical source. A vanilla note can be created with different materials and does not prove the presence of pods or extract.
Open full-size image ↗A material does not have one permanent role
A constituent can dominate a simple mixture but become perceptually masked among other odorants. Dose, the surrounding mixture and physical properties determine behavior. Labels such as 'fixative' are not guaranteed universal functions. Describe an observed effect in a specified context, not an absolute property inferred from material marketing.
Documentation before direct handling
These exercises work with documented or hypothetical materials, not unidentified neat chemicals or on-skin dilution experiments. Aromatic substances can irritate or sensitize, and some solvents are flammable. 'Natural' and 'used in perfume' do not certify safe handling. Real formulation requires appropriate training, controlled facilities and application-specific limits.
Case study: a berry note is not berry juice
A berry-like description does not prove that berry juice, berry oil or any specific natural extract is in the formula. Several materials can make a fruity accord. Ask whether your statement rests on a verified formula record or only a sensory note.
Practical desk-based exercise
Classify linalool, bergamot oil, rose absolute, an apple accord and a musk base. Record their type and two missing specifications needed before any practical use.
Three diagrams summarizing the lesson
Four layers of fragrance language
- Material: specified substance or mixture
- Base: supplier-prepared mixture
- Accord: assembled sensory character
- Note: named odor impression
Material record checklist
- Name, supplier and lot
- Grade or dilution and solvent
- Observed sensory behavior
- Safety records
Evidence decision
- Perceive fruity?
- Report an impression, not formula
- Specific ingredient claims need documents
Scientific terms
- CAS
- Identifier of a defined substance; not a complete botanical mixture specification.
- Accord
- A coherent scent impression constructed from several materials.
